Evaluación de diferentes configuraciones del modelo Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) en la costa caribe colombiana usando condiciones de borde de WaveWatch III y vientos de JRA-55

Abstract

One of the constraints in wave modeling and analysis is the low coverage with instruments that can measure wind generated waves on intermediate and nearshore waters, so there are large areas in the ocean where it is extremely difficult to gather information for developments in coastal, oceanic, and offshore engineering. The Caribbean coast of Colombia is one of the areas with the limitations described. In this region there are few modeling works combining wind forcing from recent reanalysis (e.g. JRA-55, ERA-Interim) and wave boundary conditions derived from global models (e.g. WAVEWATCH III), and in most of the studies revised there is not a comprehensive analysis of results for wave periods and directions, given an almost exclusive focus in significant wave height. A Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model setup is developed for the zone using JRA-55 reanalysis winds as forcing and wave boundary conditions from WWIII. It is described the sensitivity analysis made, the calibration of the model and the reproduction of extreme events. The results satisfactorily reproduced measured significant wave height, peak period, and mean wave direction in three locations of the study area for most of the time series comparison, underestimating the wave heights in extreme conditions. The model performs well in comparison with previous studies in the Caribbean Sea using other wind data sources, boundary conditions and other configuration schemes for SWAN. The results indicate that it is possible to reproduce the main features of the Caribbean wave climate, including the effect on the waves of the intensification of the trade winds and the cold fronts in the Caribbean main dry season, and the phenomena associated to the remote effects of cyclonic activity in the Caribbean Hurricane Season. The model can be used in the future for wave forecasting and the wave model setup can be integrated to a system mixing hydrodynamics, geomorphology and ocean-atmosphere interaction for many coastal applications.